The AW13 season begins with the school of Bauhaus. This pioneering educational system that produced innovative, modern design and encouraged new ways of teaching inspired a collection that explores colour, line, form, and function.
Unlike the more expressionist feel of the Bauhaus’ origins, the later influence of the ‘de Stijl’ movement was a paired-down aesthetic – reducing everyday useful objects and art into their bare, yet beautiful essentials. It is this process that Wooyoungmi applies to her AW13 collection.
The Bauhaus spirit manifests itself in the collection in a variety of ways: from print to colour and from silhouette to cut. The blue circle, red square and yellow triangle – the building blocks of their theory, are revisited through Wooyoungmi’s interest in the architecture of clothing and echoed in the design of the prints. These elemental colours are displayed in vivid blues and stinging yellows, and combined with more sober navy, grey and camel. Worn tone on tone, the change in shade throughout a look is subtle and expresses Wooyoungmi’s delicate tendencies. Through the lens of the designer it is a movement of simplicity and elegance.
Joseph Albers, a student and then faculty member of the school, acts as another source of inspiration for the prints with his use of colour combinations in ever-diminishing ‘squares within squares’ paintings. The idea of shapes within shapes is also applied to garments where the ‘inner shapes’ are either given a 3-dimensional touch through padding or a 2-dimensional application through print – the placement for which is inspired by motorcycle-wear. Imagining the vintage leather biker jacket of a modern day Bauhaus student, the padding technique is used to create relief and, in turn, shadow. Fabrics include a variety of wools from felt to flannel, pinstripe suiting and twill, nylon puffa-wear and raincoats, and a range of knit gauge including fine knitted rib and chunky knits. Tailoring is informal, worn
layered over knits or finished with a rucksack or beanie.
Footwear and accessories are a mixture of faux crocodile and leather, or bright felt colours that aim to highlight and accentuate each look.
Photos & text Copyright Wooyoungmi.