How can a designer have full control over his
collection? Will he ever be able to completely oversee and supervise the
manufacturing of his garments? When do the clothes cease to be the work of the
These are questions that Kevin Azzopardi has
confronted in his series titled ‘We Arrive in Pieces.’ It is a detailed study in
how to maintain creative control in a day and age where everything, fashion
included, is outsourced and manufactured by a third partner. Azzopardi started
the design process by asking himself when will the distance between him and the
clothes mean that it’s no longer his own collection.
The result is a unique interpretation of the
manufacturing process where Azzopardi has interrupted the outsourcing by
receiving the clothes from his factory in a state of incompletion. Upon return,
the pieces have been altered and reconfigured by Azzopardi, adding another
creative layer on top of the actual design process and manufacturing. By
accepting the work back half done, Azzopardi as such reassumes creative control
and responsibility for his garments and reclaims the final say of its montage.
This means that ‘We Arrive in Pieces’ is a
collection where every piece is able to stand alone, each item designed and finally
individually put together by Azzopardi using an intricate and elaborate hand
stitching technique that has come to characterize Azzopardi’s work through his
previous collections. For this season, that led to the perfect combination of
traditional factory expertise and Azzopardi’s own take on conceptual menswear
for a modern man who is aesthetically demanding whilst yet craving an exclusive
mode of fashion construction and style.
Original text by David Hellqvist Commissioning
Editor of Dazed Digital.
Photo Copyright Kevin Azzopardi.