For this season, Francisco van Benthum took inspiration from the military uniform; from the elegant silhouette of the traditional heavy wool military coat to the more sportswear influenced technical gear worn by the Special Forces. Van Benthum explored the construction and detailing of the gear that always is based on practicality and protection. Especially the low –and hi-tech detailing, the silhouette in general and the layering have been a starting point for this contemporary menswear collection.
The collection includes an almost black series where the designer emphasis on silhouette, based on the army worker uniform. The black morphs into a grey/white coloured series build around the formal heavy wool structured army long coat. In this part of the collection the designer’s technical skills are becoming more apparent. Within this range van Benthum emphasises on the constructed and the non-constructed parts of garments and plays with proportion and silhouette. The influence of sports and the fusion of this element into the more tailored pieces is a very important feature within the range.
Collection fall / winter 2013-14 is a complete collection that includes traditional constructed and non-constructed suit jackets, pants, shirts, tops and outerwear. Used fabrics are structured wool, heavy wool melanges, cooked wool, traditional loden, technical cottons; fine woollen jerseys and Swiss poplins. The colour palette includes different shades of grey, whites, stone and navy-tones, contrasted with technical black, carrot and magenta.